If you’ve ever shopped for hair extensions or wigs, you’ve likely encountered terms like “8A,” “10A,” or even “12A” hair. These grades are everywhere in the industry, but what do they actually mean? Is 10A hair really better than 8A? And why do some sellers offer “15A” while others stop at 10A?
Welcome to the confusing world of human hair grades. This guide will cut through the marketing jargon and give you the straight facts about hair grading systems, what they actually indicate about quality, and how to choose the right hair for your needs—without overpaying for inflated labels.
Part 1: What Are Human Hair Grades?
Hair grades are a classification system used in the hair extension industry to indicate quality levels. They typically appear as numbers followed by the letter “A” (like 5A, 8A, or 10A), with higher numbers supposedly representing better quality.
The Origin of Hair Grading
The hair grading system isn’t an official, regulated standard—it was created by suppliers themselves as a marketing tool. The concept first emerged in the early 2010s when vendors began using numbers like 5A or 6A to distinguish between lower-quality and better-quality hair. As competition increased, so did the grade numbers—jumping to 7A, 8A, 10A, and even 15A.
Today, the market typically recognizes eight different grades: 3A, 4A, 5A, 6A, 7A, 8A, 9A, and 10A, with some vendors pushing beyond that to 12A or luxury grades.
The Evolution of Grade Standards
What was considered “high quality” has changed dramatically over time. In the early days of the grading system, 5A hair was considered premium. But as technology evolved and customer expectations grew, 5A is now viewed as medium quality at best. The timeline looks something like this:
- Early 2010s: 3A grade appears in the market
- 2012: 4A grade launched as top-tier
- 2013: 5A becomes the new standard
- 2018: 10A grade introduced, remaining the benchmark for premium quality today
The Truth About Grade Numbers
Critical fact: Hair grades are not regulated by any official standard. There is no international body certifying that one vendor’s 10A is equivalent to another’s. Each supplier may have their own interpretation of what counts as 8A, 10A, or 12A hair.
This means that a bundle labeled “15A” from one vendor might be comparable to another vendor’s “10A”—or potentially worse. The grade number alone tells you far less than you might think.
Part 2: The Human Hair Grading Pyramid
Beyond the simple A-grade system, there’s another way to understand hair quality: the processing pyramid. This approach categorizes hair based on how it’s collected and processed, which directly impacts performance and longevity.
The Five Tiers of Hair Quality
1. Raw Human Hair (Top Tier)
Raw hair represents the most natural form of hair available. It has undergone absolutely no processing—no chemical treatments, no coloring, no acid baths. Raw hair maintains its original texture, behaves exactly like the hair on your head (responding to humidity, absorbing water naturally), and offers the longest lifespan, often lasting years with proper care.
2. Virgin Human Hair
Virgin hair is nearly as pristine as raw hair but may have been gently prepared for the market. It hasn’t been chemically processed—no dyes, perms, or straightening treatments—but might have been washed or lightly steamed. Virgin hair retains its natural strength and offers excellent durability (typically 18-24 months).
3. High-End Remy Hair
This tier represents premium Remy hair where cuticles remain intact and aligned, but the hair may have undergone some processing like coloring or heat styling to achieve desired looks. High-end Remy offers excellent value—good quality at a more accessible price point.
4. Remy Hair
Standard Remy hair preserves cuticle alignment to reduce tangling, but the quality can vary significantly between manufacturers. It may come from multiple donors and receive more treatment than higher tiers. With proper maintenance, it performs well but has a shorter lifespan (typically 10-18 months).
5. Non-Remy Hair (Bottom Tier)
Non-Remy hair sits at the bottom of the quality pyramid. The cuticles are either misaligned or completely stripped away through acid washing. The hair is then coated with silicone to create temporary smoothness. After a few washes, the coating washes off, revealing dry, tangled, short-lived hair (typically lasting only 1-4 months).
Visualizing the Quality Difference
| Tier | Grade/Name | Cuticle Integrity | Typical Lifespan | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | Raw Hair | ≥98% intact | 3+ years | Any color processing, long-term wear |
| 4 | Virgin Hair | 90%+ intact | 2-3 years | Color processing, premium quality |
| 3 | High-end Remy | 80%+ intact | 1-2 years | Daily wear, occasional coloring |
| 2 | Standard Remy | 40-60% intact | 6-12 months | Dark shades, budget-friendly quality |
| 1 | Non-Remy | <10% intact | 1-4 months | Temporary use, extreme budget constraints |
Source: Adapted from industry grading standards
Part 3: Decoding the A-Grade System (3A through 12A)
While the processing pyramid tells you about how hair is handled, the A-grade system attempts to quantify thickness and uniformity. Here’s what different grade numbers typically represent:
Lower Grades: 3A to 7A
3A Grade: Represents the lowest quality level. This hair typically undergoes extensive processing, resulting in compromised texture and durability. It’s more affordable but requires significant maintenance.
4A Grade: Slightly better than 3A, with some processing but reasonable texture. Offers a balance between quality and affordability.
5A Grade: A step up in quality with less processing and better durability. Maintains decent texture and appearance.
6A Grade: Considered good quality among grades. Less processed, often maintaining natural texture and color. Provides durability and styling versatility.
7A Grade: Higher quality, typically virgin hair with minimal processing. Offers excellent durability and natural appearance.
Mid-Range Grades: 8A to 9A
8A Grade: This is where quality begins to shine. 8A hair is typically Remy hair with about 60-80% of cuticles intact. It contains a noticeable amount of shorter hairs mixed in (about 50% long hair ratio) and lasts approximately 6-12 months with proper care.
What to know about 8A hair: It’s a good budget-friendly option but is NOT virgin hair. Some vendors dye 8A hair to natural black (color 1b) to make it appear healthier. This pre-dyed hair cannot be bleached or significantly lightened.
9A Grade: Considered high-quality hair. 9A is typically virgin or high-grade Remy hair with about 60-70% long hair uniformity. It’s often from a single donor (or carefully matched donors) with cuticles intact and aligned. Lifespan ranges from 1-2 years.
9A hair meaning: When vendors describe 9A hair, they’re usually indicating 100% human hair with intact cuticles running in the same direction. It can be safely colored and styled, though bleaching results may vary since multiple donors might be involved.
Premium Grades: 10A and Above
10A Grade: This represents the best commonly available grade. 10A hair is almost always 100% virgin, unprocessed human hair from a single donor. It features thick ends, strong hair structure, and approximately 70%+ long hair uniformity. Lifespan typically reaches 2-5 years with proper care.
Key features of 10A hair:
- Can be bleached and dyed safely
- No tangling or matting
- Minimal maintenance required
- Thick from root to tip
12A / Luxury Grades: The highest tier in the grading system. This hair is almost exclusively single-donor virgin hair with over 75% long hair uniformity. It offers exceptional thickness, minimal shedding, and the longest possible lifespan (2+ years). These grades command premium prices but deliver superior performance.
Grade Comparison Chart
| Grade | Quality Level | Long Hair Ratio | Cuticle Integrity | Typical Lifespan | Can You Bleach It? |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6A-7A | Budget | ~30-40% | 40-50% | 3-6 months | Not recommended |
| 8A | Mid-range | ~50% | 60-80% | 6-12 months | Limited (may be pre-dyed) |
| 9A | High | ~60-70% | 80-90% | 1-2 years | Yes, with care |
| 10A | Premium | ~70-75% | 90-95% | 2-3 years | Yes, safely |
| 12A+ | Luxury | 75%+ | 95%+ | 3+ years | Yes, excellent results |
Sources: Industry grading data
Part 4: What Actually Determines Hair Quality?
Since grade numbers aren’t standardized, understanding the real factors behind hair quality helps you make informed decisions regardless of what label a vendor uses.
The Four Pillars of Hair Quality
1. Cuticle Alignment
The cuticle is the outermost layer of each hair strand. In high-quality hair, all cuticles face the same direction (from root to tip). This alignment prevents strands from rubbing against each other, which causes tangling, matting, and frizz.
How to test: Run your fingers up a strand of hair (from tip to root). If it feels rough or catches, the cuticles are present and facing downward. If it feels smooth in both directions, the cuticles may be damaged or missing.
2. Cuticle Integrity
Beyond alignment, the percentage of intact cuticles matters. High-quality hair preserves 80-100% of its cuticle layer. Lower-quality hair may have cuticles stripped away through acid washing, then coated with silicone for temporary shine.
3. Processing Level
How much chemical treatment has the hair undergone? Raw and virgin hair undergo minimal to no processing, preserving natural strength. Processed hair may be colored, permed, or straightened—each treatment potentially weakening the fiber.
4. Sourcing Consistency
Single-donor hair (all from one person) offers uniform texture, color, and behavior. Multi-donor hair may have inconsistent quality, with some strands behaving differently than others.
Single Drawn vs. Double Drawn Hair
This distinction affects how full your hair looks:
- Single drawn hair: Contains natural length variations, meaning some strands are shorter than others. This creates thinner-looking ends.
- Double drawn hair: Has been sorted and trimmed so that most strands are the same length from root to tip. This creates a thick, full appearance throughout.
Higher-grade hair (10A+) is almost always double-drawn, contributing to its premium look and feel.
Part 5: Hair Grades vs. Hair Origin
Hair origin (where the hair comes from geographically) is often confused with grades, but they’re separate factors. Different origins offer distinct characteristics regardless of grade.
Popular Hair Origins and Their Traits
Vietnamese Hair
– Characteristics: Exceptionally thick strands, strong structure, high density
– Natural state: Nearly 100% straight or slightly wavy, black or deep dark brown
– Best for: Clients demanding durability and those who bleach or dye to light colors
– Grade compatibility: Often meets or exceeds 10A standards
Brazilian Hair Bundles
– Characteristics: Thick strands, high density, excellent elasticity
– Natural state: Voluminous, holds curls and waves well
– Best for: Humid climates, clients wanting impressive volume
– Grade compatibility: Available across all grade levels
Peruvian Hair
– Characteristics: Thicker than Indian hair but lighter than Brazilian, soft, medium porosity
– Natural state: Provides natural bounce
– Best for: Curly or wavy styles requiring volume without weight
– Grade compatibility: Common in 8A-10A ranges
Malaysian Hair
– Characteristics: Medium thickness, initially high luster
– Natural state: Typically dark brown, holds straight styles well
– Best for: Sleek straight styles, soft waves
– Grade compatibility: Available in mid to premium grades
Indian Hair
– Characteristics: Fine, lightweight strands, high porosity, most versatile texture range
– Natural state: Straight, wavy, or curly options available
– Best for: Versatile styling, though requires deep moisturizing
– Grade compatibility: Widely available across all grades
How Origin and Grade Intersect
The highest grades (10A+) typically come from regions known for strong, thick hair like Vietnam and Brazil. However, quality ultimately depends on how the hair is collected and processed, not just where it originates.
Part 6: How to Evaluate Hair Quality Yourself
Since grade numbers can be misleading, knowing how to assess hair quality firsthand protects your investment.
The Hands-On Testing Toolkit
1. The Cuticle Test
Run your fingers up a single strand (toward the root end). If it feels rough, cuticles are present and facing the correct direction. If it’s smooth in both directions, cuticles may be damaged or missing.
2. The Tangle Test
Gently comb through the hair. Quality hair should comb through smoothly with minimal resistance. Excessive tangling or shedding during this simple test indicates poor cuticle alignment.
3. The Water Test
Dip a small section in water. Natural hair will absorb water gradually. If the hair becomes sticky, releases a strong chemical smell, or repels water completely, it likely has heavy silicone coatings.
4. The Burn Test (use caution)
Take a small strand and burn it. Real human hair smells like burning protein (similar to burning hair or feathers). Synthetic fibers or blends will melt and smell like plastic.
5. The Wash Test
Shampoo and condition the hair, then let it air dry. Quality hair should retain its texture and softness. Heavily coated hair will lose its artificial smoothness after washing.
6. The Color Absorption Test (if you plan to dye)
Test how well a small section absorbs color. Poor-quality hair won’t hold dye evenly.
Visual Inspection Tips
- Natural shine: Quality hair has a subtle, natural luster—not an overly glossy, “plastic” appearance from silicone coatings
- End condition: Healthy ends that are full, not split or wispy
- Weft construction: Clean stitching with minimal short hairs escaping
- No chemical smell: Quality hair shouldn’t have strong chemical odors
Red Flags When Shopping Online
- The price seems too good for a “top grade” label
- The seller can’t explain the difference between their grades
- Product images are overly edited or generic
- The hair origin isn’t disclosed
- Customer reviews mention tangling or shedding after a few washes
Part 7: Matching Hair Grades to Your Needs
The “best” grade depends entirely on how you plan to use the hair. Here’s how to match grade to your situation.
By Intended Use
For Everyday Wear / Long-Term Installs
– Recommended: 9A or 10A hair
– Why: Thick, well-aligned bundles with healthy cuticles withstand daily styling and last 1-3 years
– Investment perspective: Higher upfront cost but better cost-per-wear over time
For Special Occasions / Temporary Use
– Recommended: 7A-8A hair
– Why: Good appearance for events without premium investment
– Consideration: May not withstand repeated styling or extended wear
For Human Hair Wigs
– Recommended: 9A+ with high density
– Why: Wigs require fullness and length consistency across all bundles for natural appearance
For Coloring and Bleaching
– Recommended: 10A or virgin hair only
– Why: Unprocessed hair has the structural integrity to withstand chemical processing
By Budget Level
Budget-Friendly Choice (6A-7A)
– 3-6 month lifespan
– Limited styling versatility
– Best for fashion-focused, quick rotation
Best Value (8A-9A)
– 1-2 year lifespan
– Good styling versatility
– Sweet spot between cost and longevity
Premium Investment (10A+)
– 2-5 year lifespan
– Maximum styling versatility
– Lowest long-term cost if maintained properly
Professional vs. Personal Use
For Salons and Professionals: 9A-10A hair is the standard. Professionals need hair that performs consistently, holds styles well, and satisfies discerning clients.
For Personal Use: 8A-9A often provides the best balance for most individuals, offering good longevity without the premium price tag of top-tier hair.
Part 8: Caring for Different Hair Grades
Proper maintenance extends the life of any hair grade, but different quality levels require different approaches.
Care Guidelines by Grade
| Care Method | Raw/Virgin | High-Grade Remy | Standard Remy | Non-Remy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gentle washing | ✔️ Essential | ✔️ Essential | ✔️ Essential | ✔️ Essential |
| Deep conditioning | Weekly | Weekly | Weekly | Weekly |
| Heat protection | Always | Always | Always | Always |
| Lower heat settings | 350°F max | 350°F max | 300°F max | 250°F max |
| Color processing | Safe | Safe with care | Not recommended | Never |
| Expected lifespan with care | 2-5 years | 1-3 years | 6-12 months | 1-4 months |
Source: Hair care recommendations
Universal Care Tips
Regardless of grade, follow these practices for maximum longevity:
- Detangle gently: Start from ends and work up to roots
- Wash wisely: Shampoo infrequently (every 7-14 wears), focusing on roots
- Condition thoroughly: Apply conditioner to mid-lengths and ends, avoiding roots
- Store properly: Keep in a silk bag or on a wig stand in a cool, dry place
- Night protection: Braid or wrap hair and sleep on a silk pillowcase
- Heat discipline: Always use heat protectant and avoid excessive temperatures
Part 9: Common Myths About Hair Grades
Let’s debunk some persistent misconceptions.
Myth 1: Higher Grade Always Means Better Quality
Reality: Since grades aren’t standardized, one vendor’s 10A might be another’s 8A. Focus on actual quality indicators, not just the number.
Myth 2: 15A or 20A Hair Exists as a Standard Category
Reality: These inflated numbers are pure marketing. The industry standard tops out at 10A-12A for legitimate vendors.
Myth 3: All Remy Hair Is High Quality
Reality: “Remy” simply means cuticles are aligned. But hair can be Remy and still be heavily processed, coated, or from mixed sources.
Myth 4: Grade Numbers Are Regulated
Reality: There’s no regulatory body for hair grades. Each vendor creates their own standards.
Myth 5: You Can’t Get Good Quality Below 10A
Reality: Excellent 8A and 9A hair exists from reputable vendors. Grade inflation means many “10A” products are actually 8A quality.
Myth 6: All Virgin Hair Is the Same
Reality: Virgin hair varies by origin, donor health, and how carefully it was collected and stored.
Part 10: Frequently Asked Questions
Is grade 12A hair better than 10A?
Not necessarily. Since there’s no universal standard, “12A” often represents the same quality as another vendor’s “10A.” Some reputable vendors use 12A to indicate their absolute top tier, but the number alone doesn’t guarantee superiority.
What does 10A hair mean in real terms?
10A typically indicates 100% virgin human hair from a single donor, with intact cuticles aligned in one direction, thick from root to tip, and capable of being bleached or colored safely. It represents the premium tier in most grading systems.
Can I bleach 8A hair?
It depends. Some 8A hair is pre-dyed to appear healthier and cannot be lightened. If the 8A hair is truly unprocessed, limited bleaching might be possible, but results aren’t guaranteed. For reliable bleaching, stick to 10A or virgin hair.
How long should different grades last?
– 6A-7A: 3-6 months
– 8A: 6-12 months
– 9A: 1-2 years
– 10A+: 2-5 years
Why do two vendors charge different prices for the same grade?
Because grades aren’t standardized, one vendor’s “10A” might be equivalent to another’s “8A.” Additionally, factors like origin, processing methods, and weft construction affect pricing beyond the grade label.
What’s the difference between 9A and 10A hair?
The main differences are in uniformity and thickness. 10A typically has a higher percentage of long strands (70%+ vs. 60-70%), more consistent quality, and better bleaching results. 10A also tends to come from verified single donors, while 9A may combine multiple donors.
Is there a difference between hair grades for men?
The grading system is the same, but men often prioritize different factors like durability for short hairpieces and natural-looking textures. The grade itself doesn’t change based on gender.
Conclusion: Beyond the Grade Number
After exploring the world of human hair grades, one truth becomes clear: the number on the label matters far less than the quality in your hands.
The hair grading system, while helpful as a rough guide, remains an unregulated marketing tool rather than a reliable quality benchmark. Smart buyers look beyond the grade to evaluate:
- Cuticle integrity and alignment – The true foundation of tangle-free longevity
- Processing level – Less processing means more durability
- Sourcing consistency – Single-donor hair offers predictable performance
- Vendor reputation – Trustworthy sellers earn their reputation through consistent quality
- Hands-on testing – Your own evaluation trumps any label
Your Action Plan for Buying Hair
- Define your needs: How long do you need the hair to last? Will you color it? How often will you style it with heat?
- Research vendors: Look for transparent sellers who explain their quality standards and can answer detailed questions.
- Request samples: Before committing to a full purchase, get samples to evaluate cuticle feel, texture, and behavior.
- Read reviews strategically: Look for feedback about how the hair performs after several months, not just upon arrival.
- Match grade to use: Invest in 10A+ for long-term wear and coloring; choose 8A-9A for good quality at accessible prices; consider 6A-7A only for temporary, budget-conscious needs.
- Care properly: Whatever grade you choose, proper maintenance dramatically extends lifespan and preserves appearance.
Remember: The best hair grade isn’t the highest number—it’s the one that meets your specific needs, fits your budget, and comes from a vendor whose quality standards align with their claims. Grade is just a number; real quality reveals itself over time, through how the hair looks, feels, and performs wash after wash, style after style.
Sources: This guide synthesizes information from industry experts, including Yoghair, Luvme Hair, K-Hair, Govihair, and Alphahair, along with scientific context from peer-reviewed research.